Draped in elegance, sarees have been an integral part of India’s culture for centuries. Among the many exquisite handloom weaves, the Chanderi saree stands out as a masterpiece of fine texture, sheer fabric, and motifs. Originating exclusively from Chanderi, a town in the Ashoknagar District of Madhya Pradesh, this handwoven legacy has been passed down through generations of skilled artisans. ‘The Hitavada’ spoke to the weavers to understand their craft and discovered how Chanderi town’s climate plays a role in making Chanderi sarees. Manohar Lal Koli, an artisan of Chanderi sarees, explained, “The beauty of Chanderi sarees lies in the fact that they are purely handmade. We can weave any design onto a Chanderi saree, even it is a deity’s idol design.”

 

He added that the thread they use is finer than human hair. Mohammad Nafees, also a Chanderi saree artisan, carries the weight of a rich heritage on his shoulders. “I am the fourth generation of weavers in my family. As children, we grew up with this craft all around us. After school, we would sit beside our fathers at the loom, learning the art of weaving. In exchange for our efforts, they would give us a little money,” he said. Nafees carefully unfolded a saree while speaking, revealing an exquisite Ashrafi design. “Ashrafi motif is one of the earliest designs commissioned for the royal palaces of earlier times,” he explained. With time, Chanderi artisans expanded their creativity, introducing newer designs. Showing ‘Sada Suhagan’ saree, he told that three skilled artisans work together and it took precisely three months and ten days to complete it. Government-organised exhibitions have also opened new doors for traditional weavers. “These exhibitions give us a direct platform to connect with customers. Earlier, we remained within our workshops, unaware of the changing market trends.

 

When we show a saree, a customer might suggest a different color combination, something we had not considered,” he said. Speaking about customers, he mentioned that before the COVID-19 pandemic, the market thrived, and customers were eager to buy. “In recent years, the cost of materials has shot up, silk became expensive, labour costs increased, and prices soared overall. Now customers think twice before spending. But those who truly appreciate it, they continue to wear it,” remarked Nafees. Both Manohar Lal Koli and Mohammad Nafees expressed that one of the most beautiful things about Chanderi town is that people of different religions live together in harmony. No matter what happens in the world outside, the residents of Chanderi remain like one family. They said that the environment and climate of Chanderi town also play a role in making the sarees.

 

“The air here, the temperature, the moisture, all play a role. If one tries to make a Chanderi saree in Nagpur or anywhere else, they will not succeed. In hotter climates, the silk threads break. This craft belongs to Chanderi, and Chanderi belongs to this craft,” they noted. On Government support, he acknowledged both challenges and aid. “When we were children, we saw our fathers weaving in the light of candles whenever the power went out. But the Madhya Pradesh government, with the support of Minister Jyotiraditya Scindia, provided solar power to every worker. That made a huge difference,” he stated. Koli added that to sustain our handloom legacy, the Madhya Pradesh government has banned the use of machines and power looms in making Chanderi sarees. With modern influences and evolving designs, the artisans experimented with designs and colors, but the core of our craft remained intact.