IN THE narrow lanes of Aminabad, Hazratganj, Hyderganj and other localities of Lucknow, the ‘One District One Product’ (ODOP) programme is breathing a new life into the ancient art of Lucknow Chikankari. This initiative, championed by Prime Minister Modi’s Government, promotes indigenous crafts in Uttar Pradesh, including Chikankari, with financial support through schemes like Prime Minister Mudra Yojana, Stand Up India, and Pradhan Mantri Rozgar Yojana. Chikankari is not merely fabric and thread. It is an age-old art form though its origins are somewhat obscure.

 

The term ‘Chikankari’ translates to ‘embroidery’ and is one of Lucknow’s most renowned textile decoration styles. Artisans in Lucknow are weaving history into modern times, with the support through ODOP programme now. “We are now comfortable. In earlier days, there was severe financial strain on the workers in absence of any supporting scheme. Now, we are facing a shortage of artisans due to the steep rise in demand for Lucknowi Chikankari products,” a trader told ‘The Hitavada’. Lucknow’s Chikankari is interwoven with the rich cultural tapestry of Uttar Pradesh. According to a member of traders’ association, Chikankari’s origins are as enigmatic as they are mythical. References to Indian Chikankari work date back to the 3rd Century BC. The artisans were so meticulous in those days that Megasthenes noted that Indians wore flowered muslins.

 

Though its exact origins in India are debated, the connection between Lucknow and Chikankari is somewhat parallel. The Mughal influence, especially from Empress Noor Jahan, who was captivated by the art form, helped it flourish as a favoured craft of the royal court. This royal patronage not only gave Chikankari the boost it needed to grow but also firmly rooted it in Lucknow’s socio-cultural fabric. The heart of this intricate craft lies in the Chowk area, where centuries-old hand embroidery tradition thrives, showcasing the excellence of Uttar Pradesh’s artisans. The floral patterns and fine motifs echo history and reflect the influence of Persian nobles in the Mughal court. This white-on-white embroidery style has adorned the garments of royalty and commoners alike for generations.

 

Today, Chikankari is not merely a craft, it is a way of life for thousands of artisans in Lucknow and its surrounding villages, embodying their history, identity, and livelihood. The ODOP programme supports Chikankari as its premier product from Lucknow, providing training, support, and financial backing to artisans and entrepreneurs. “It also helps artisans connect with markets by reimbursing up to 90% of the financial cost of ODOP projects, up to Rs 15 crore,” said a senior government official. The once narrow and congested lanes of the historic city of Lucknow are now more accessible, yet they retain the tradition of Chikankari. Walking through Taalkatira Road offers a glimpse of Old Lucknow, with the air filled with the aroma of ‘Chat Puri’ and kebabs.

 

“The Government has taken several initiatives to support Chikankari, and now I am confident our next generation will take the art form to a new level,” said a trader who supplies materials to artisans. “ODOP programme needs some modifications and improvements as there always remains room for improvement. But, Lucknowi Chikankari products are now in more demand from across the globe,” said a local trader.